Mark A.

Review of Maze

21 Jun 07, 20:13

Give it up to Gordon (well, Jason, really)

Though I'm not generally a fan of "celebrity" chefs and "it" restaurants, I kept reading fabulous things about the food at maze. For my partner's birthday I reserved two seats at the bar (tables between 6 & 10:30 were booked) as a special treat. He arrived from the office in a foul mood and chucked the drinks menu on the bar with a huff: "too girly" was his pronouncement (I had a Reformed Negroni, made with Punt e Mes instead of Campari, and it *was* on the sweet side). He ordered a regular gin martini. His eyes also glazed over with annoyance at the food menu, which explains the concept on page one: it suggests one of "Jason's tasting menus" of 6, 8 or 11 individual dishes. But there aren't any tasting menus in the conventional sense. Rather, you've got to choose the things you want essentially a la carte (a heading on the menu's last page, presumably referring to larger "main" size portions). He wasn't having it. I was worried that our evening was doomed. Enter Dennis, our waiter (and saviour). We put our entire evening in his (and the barback's) hands. The experience that ensued, from the bread and butter to the lollipop of pineapple-anise sorbet and meringue, was flawless. The dishes came in pairs beginning with several lighter seafood dishes, moving on to fowl, beetroot with cheese, and ending with lamb and pork belly. We ordered wine flights: three glasses selected by the sommelier to match our food. Desserts were rice pudding, pineapple carpaccio, panna cotta, chocolate fondant, the above-mentioned lollipops, Turkish delight, and basil-infused chocolate truffles. Two desserts and one dessert wine were comped. After our meal we were offered a tour of the kitchen (which looks better than on any TV show). Definitely a case of DO believe the hype. Up there with the best meals I've ever had. Cost a small fortune, but worth it for a special occasion!

1 out of 1 person found this review helpful.

Review of Ragam

21 Jun 07, 17:00

OH. MY. GOD.

Don't think just because this place looks like a dime-a-dozen (do they have an equivalent idiom here?) hole in the wall Indian that you can waltz in any old time and snag a table. Nosiree, Bob! This place is packed with folks who KNOW how unbelievably delicious the food is, so you'd better ring ahead to book your table. Not days or weeks, just hours, but still... There's an extensive list of dhosas (kinda like Indian crepes, though there are soft and crispy varieties -- I haven't worked out which are which yet). Otherwise, the best dishes are all reflective of the southern tropical loveliness that is Kerala province. Heaven! Even the less-than-lovely decor can't knock a star off their rating!

1 out of 1 person found this review helpful.

Review of Peyton and Byrne

21 Jun 07, 11:49

Scotch Egg Heaven

This place has one fatal flaw, so I'll dispense with it first: the fairy cakes have too much frosting. But that's not enough to knock a star off their rating (after all, the copious dollop allows for adjustments to suit one's individual taste -- just lop off the excess). Other than that: scrumptious. Everything. You haven't tasted a Scotch Egg 'til you've had one from Peyton + Byrne. And decent coffee to boot. If I lived any closer I'd be seriously concerned about my waistline.

0 out of 0 people found this review helpful.

Review of Monmouth Coffee House

21 Jun 07, 11:32

Coffee Mecca

This jewelbox, together with its two siblings in or near Borough Market, serves the second best coffee on the planet. I'm sorry, but the best is Blue Bottle Coffee in San Francisco. Still, Monmouth makes a pretty damn delicious brew. When you place an order -- even for filter coffee -- the beans are ground to spec and a diminutive individual cup is freshly brewed for you by the barista. By default you'll get the coffee of the day, but you can request any of the dozen-plus varieties on offer at any time. Eco-conscious bamboo spoons are available to stir in thick organic whole milk and/or organic fructose (which is dark brown and not as sweet as sugar).

High-quality sweet and savoury cakes and pastries can be taken away or consumed in the miniscule seating area up a couple of steps in the back. You might be asked to share a cozy cubby with arty trustafarians or Japanese tourists. There's also a narrow bench out front.

For those who prefer to brew and consume their coffee in the privacy of their own homes or offices, there's a rotating selection of ethically sourced beans available for purchase. The staff are extremely knowledgeable and consistently offer excellent recommendations.

2 out of 2 people found this review helpful.

Review of The Ledbury

20 Jun 07, 18:51

Affordable Luxury

Located on a pretty stretch of Ledbury Road, this five star coccoon exudes sophistication and refined elegance. The choice of carpeting and fabric wall coverings, plus the generous distance between tables, gives the room a "grown up" feeling while muting the sound of other diners, who are seen but not heard. The service tends toward the formal, but not overly so, giving the perfect combination of professionalism and warmth. The wine list is extensive, and the sommelier provided excellent advice on a couple of bottles within the price range we specified. The portions, while artfully composed in a French style, are generous but don't leave one feeling over-full. I don't even know if there's a special name for a second amuse gule! Including the truffles and caramels at the end of the meal, there were three "gifts" from the chef in addition to our three course meal. Everything, from vegetables to fish to fowl to meat, was absolutely delicious and perfectly cooked. Another plus, which won't matter after July, is that the restaurant is non-smoking, meaning there's nothing to distract from the flavours and aromas on the table!

0 out of 0 people found this review helpful.